20 Teams, 5 Minutes, And A Thrift Store Dream: How One Southeast Portland Winery Crushed The Competition To Celebrate Two Decades
The South Tabor event brings a historic harvest tradition to the cityscape.

In the sprawling tapestry of the American West, cities often encroach upon the land, yet they occasionally choose to embrace it rather than conquer it. This philosophy anchors the spirit of what is happening in Southeast Portland this October. Love & Squalor Wine is turning 20 this year, and the Southeast Portland winery is marking the milestone with a visceral celebration of its roots. The event is a grape-stomping showdown pitting twenty teams against each other to see who can crush the most juice by foot in five minutes flat. The competition lands on October 10 at the winery's South Tabor crushpad, an urban setting that transforms the quiet industrial neighborhood into a scene of festive chaos. This gathering is not merely a party; it is a testament to the way the agricultural spirit survives and thrives within the concrete jungle. The atmosphere is complete with an "I Love Lucy" look-alike contest, wine, food, and music, creating a carnival-like environment that honors the messy, physical labor of the harvest season. As officials note, the station's report suggests the day will offer much more than just the spectacle of crushed grapes.
The history of Love & Squalor is a fascinating chapter in the modern West, one that begins not in a pristine vineyard but in a second-hand shop. Berson launched Love & Squalor back in 2006 with a modest first run of just 65 cases. The brand was named after a thrift store copy of J.D. Salinger's *Nine Stories* he stumbled across, a literary nod that adds a layer of intellectual depth to the brand's identity. This origin story highlights how the West is built on story as much as soil. Before settling into a permanent home, Berson made his wines for years in a shared winery in McMinnville, a journey that reflects the itinerant nature of early American winemaking. The brand eventually found its base at Portland Wine Company's facility at 3201 SE 50th Ave, a 5,000-square-foot urban winery and tasting room that opened in October 2019. This facility now houses Love & Squalor alongside several sibling projects, proving that the urban winery model allows commercial winemaking to exist seamlessly within residential areas. Per the Oregon Wine Board, the site also produces Garageland, Pet Matt sparkling wines, the Mothershucker white blend, and the Marty red blend. This diverse production capability indicates that the facility is a true engine of the local economy, fermenting and bottling more than just the flagship label.
The location itself, South Tabor, offers a unique geological and cultural vantage point. The crushpad sits in the South Tabor neighborhood, immediately south of Mount Tabor Park, which is a 176-acre city park built around an extinct volcanic cinder cone. This urban oasis provides a stunning backdrop for the harvest festivities, connecting the agricultural act of crushing grapes to the ancient geological forces of the region. South Tabor extends from Division Street down to Powell, placing the action right in the heart of a vibrant urban district. Portland is home to more than 30 wineries, and the PDX Urban Wineries Association lists 16 members. This model lets residents watch commercial winemaking happen without a drive out to the Willamette Valley, democratizing access to the industry. The October 10 event also falls squarely within Oregon's harvest and crush season, which typically runs from September through late October as wineries process incoming fruit in real time. According to the Willamette Valley Wineries Association, this timing allows the public to witness the industry's pulse.
Even as the industry navigates the complexities of the current market, its overall footprint remains massive and vital to the state's identity. The stomp arrives amid a notably smaller Oregon harvest than in recent years. The 2025 Oregon Vineyard and Winery Census Report, published in July, found that Oregon wineries crushed 73,771 tons of wine grapes statewide, a 23% drop from 2024, while Pinot Noir remained the dominant variety, making up 59% of planted acreage, according to the Oregon Wine Board. Even so, the industry's overall footprint remains massive: the Oregon Wine Board's 2024 Economic Impact Report, released in February, found the state's wine and wine grape industry generated $8.49 billion in economic impact and supported more than 38,000 jobs. This economic power underscores why events like the Love & Squalor anniversary celebration are significant cultural touchstones. The event includes a costume contest. The CBS sitcom episode “Lucy's Italian Movie,” which aired April 16, 1956, featured Lucille Ball in a slapstick grape-vat brawl with actress Teresa Tirelli, according to Vintage Everyday. Ball's scene remains one of classic television's most enduring comedy bits, and its inclusion in the festivities nods to the timeless appeal of the harvest ritual.
Southeast Portland isn't unfamiliar with grape stomping as a community draw, suggesting the activity has become something of a recurring fixture for local harvest and cultural celebrations. The neighborhood's Italian Festival of Portland featured its own grape stomping and bocce games at St. Philip Neri Catholic Church on SE 16th Avenue in August. This recurring nature of the activity within the community highlights how the West integrates new traditions with old world celebrations. With tickets still available, Love & Squalor's 20th-anniversary stomp gives Southeast Portland another shot at getting its feet purple before the season winds down, bridging the gap between the historic Willamette Valley and the modern urban center. The report suggests that the event will provide a unique opportunity to engage with the local wine community.
First reported by Hoodline.
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